- fully open the valves or thermostatic valves of ALL radiators, even those that are “never open.”
- Switch on the heating (if necessary pass the boiler manually) by increasing the room temperature setpoint to force the generator to start.
- Increase the circulation speed on the heating pump if it has a speed selector. Open (manually) the mixing valve (s) if installed.
- let warm until the generator stops once the installation is warmed
- then switch off the power supply so that the circulation pump does not work anymore
- increase the pressure of the installation to 2 bars
- wait 1 hour to let the air naturally move in the upper part of the plant
- Purge the nurses of the floor or floors (if present), then purge the radiators starting with those installed at the lowest without hesitating to open enough the purge to properly chase the air, while keeping a minimum of pressure in the installation as the air purge of the installation.
- reset the various settings to their original state
- restart the installation and repeat the operation a little later if the air is still present.
Following the replacement of a boiler, a defoaming of your heating circuit, an intervention on the hydraulic network of heating or sanitary requiring a draining, a replacement of water heaters, we recommend the operations of following maintenance or service.
Hot Water Central Heating Tips
After an intervention (boiler replacement, disemboweling of the heating circuit), following the restarting of the heating system, despite the full purge performed by the professional or your care, noises of air or water can sometimes occur for a few more days inside the heating circuit. This is quite normal because it is indeed technically impossible to hunt all the air at the end of the intervention (bubbles can still remain “stuck” and move a few days later in the circuit).
To remedy this, it is necessary to ensure the days following the intervention (or when the heating is restarted if the invasion took place outside the heating period) to:
purge your radiators (if present) starting with those installed at the lowest levels, several times if necessary until the disappearance of traffic noise or air (attention also to the “high points” sometimes present on some installations, l air blocked in the piping completely preventing the flow of water).
purge the return/return flow of the floor heating (if present and equipped with an air vent).
Monitor the water pressure, which should generally oscillate around 1 to 2.5 bars depending on the number of floors of the building in residential: add water as needed, especially after purging the heating circuit or radiators.
And In Any Case, To Ensure Optimal Operation Of Your Installation:
Purge the installation (radiators, underfloor heaters) during the heating period only in the event of noises, cold areas in the upper part of the radiator, or if the water does not circulate in the nurses’ outlets. Contrary to popular belief, this purge is not to be systematically carried out before each heating season, because a removal necessarily leads to extra water to restore the pressure in the heating circuit and then disrupts the chemical balance of the heating system. Water (the heating is a closed circuit) and thus accelerated the formation of sludge.
Regularly monitor the pressure and quality of the water (pH, hardness) of the heating circuit: pH between 7 and 8, Iron <0.5mg / L, Copper <0.1mg / L (otherwise it there is a risk of deterioration for the heating element and/or corrosion phenomena on the installation, it is imperative to empty the installation and provide adequate packaging).
Fill the installation with quality water: the water must be clear (free of impurities or silt) and have a total hardness below 15 ° F; in the opposite case, it is necessary to provide an upstream filter and adequate chemical conditioning (anti-limescale filter, magnetic antiscale or softener ).
Regularly operate the valves and safety groups on the system and have them replaced immediately in case of leaks or continuous flow.
Take care of the necessary annual maintenance of your heat generator and flue gas ducts.
Check and adjust the pressure of each diaphragm expansion vessel (heating and sanitary).
Make sure that the lift pump (if present) is working correctly and clean it regularly so that it does not become blocked (especially with condensate from a condensing oil boiler).
For installations equipped with a condensate neutralizer, regularly check the flow of condensates, and if necessary, thoroughly clean the granules to remove sludge and deposits and avoid clogging of the neutraliser (at least twice a year, during the 2 half -season of heating at the time when the boiler condenses the most), and ensure the replacement always leaving a slight vacuum of air of at least 20 to 30% of the load in “pellets” every 6 months to 1 year in the volume of the neutralizer, the power of the boiler, its fuel; the consumption varies according to the acidity and the amount produced.
It is essential to leave all thermostatic radiator valves in the “open” position (maximum temperature) outside the heating period to prevent them from seizing.
Change everything “faucet + thermostatic head” which would remain blocked, and in any case, provide for their replacement approximately every ten years, or less depending on their quality.
Perform regular deboning: heated floor every five years, radiators every 5 to 10 years (or less especially in the presence of PER pipes without BAO – oxygen barrier – efficient or radiators “steel,” the quality of your water, with facilities subject to frequent water supplies).
Perform regular debugging / cleaning (about every ten years or less) of its oil storage tank, especially with the use of high performance condensing oil boilers.…
Accumulation water heaters, called hot water tanks because of their tank filled with warm water of 50, 100, 150 or 200 liters, are chosen according to the number of people; their resistance and anode according to whether the water is calcareous and aggressive — our tips for choosing the best water heater.
Which Water Heater To Choose: the 4-point answer No need to know everything about storage water heaters to choose your hot water tank.
Here’s how to choose your 4-point storage water heater:
- Vertical Or Horizontal: the installation location chooses for you.
- Volume Of Water: 75 l / 1 person; 100 l / 2 people + 50 l / pers. Additional.
- Resistance: thermal plonge resistance if neutral or shallow water; steatite resistance if water lasts.
- Anode: sacrificial anode for moderately hard water; imposed current anode (ICA) for hard water; ACI hybrid for any water.
Mandatory associated safety equipment
- Thermostatic Limiter: limits the water temperature to 50 ° C.
- Safety Group: regulates the pressure of the balloon.
Composition of an electric storage heater
An electric storage water heater, also called hot water tank, is an electric heater is composed of:
- an enameled container whose volume is measured in liters (l) and dimensioned if necessary of water of the habitat;
- arrival and a water outlet ;
- a resistance immersed in the water charged with heating it;
- a thermostat that allows the setting of the set temperature and the triggering of the electrical resistance for boiling the water;
- an anode to provide corrosion protection;
- a front terminal block for the electrical connection;
- a plastic hood ;
- a pilot light (optional);
- a breakwater that allows the maintenance of a large amount of water at constant temperature (optional).
Vertical Or Horizontal Hot Water Tank: A Question Of Installation
Choosing The Location Of The Water Heater
A ball requires a sizeable dedicated volume that can be difficult to integrate into your home. Fortunately, manufacturers offer them in different forms to meet all needs.
The vertical balloons are the most common.
If the configuration of your home does not allow the installation of a vertical water heater, there are horizontal balloons. These can be fixed to the ground in a roof, the ceiling if the height allows it or even in the middle of a wall.
Attention, it will then choose a capacity 50 liters higher than that of the equivalent vertical water heater.
These water heaters never exceed 200 liters.
Water heater bracket
Installation on a load-bearing wall
A storage water heater stores a lot of water, so it is cumbersome. Up to 200kg, it is possible to fix it to load- bearing walls via anchors.
Wall Installation If Water Heater 100 Liter
From any 100-liter flask and for plants where the support cannot withstand the weight of the hot water tank, it is advisable to install the water heater on a tripod or pedestal.
Water Heater Installation ≥ 200 Liter
Beyond any water heater of 200 liters or if the walls are not carrying, the addition of support is obligatory. Check that your floor can support such a weight; this is not always the case, especially in the old. If in doubt, contact a competent professional.
The maintenance of a storage water heater can be summed up so little that one is tempted to ignore it. Without dispensing a lecture, specify the few operations necessary to ensure the water heater longevity and performance.
- The monthly purge guarantees the elimination of sediment accumulated during the last four weeks. Sediments that as we know, it harms the heating performance by depositing on the resistance. It is done through the security group.
- The periodic emptying the water heater eliminates lime deposits and make accessible the thermal strength plunge and check the status of the sacrificial anode *.
- The descaling process involves removing sediment deposits from the bottom of the tank, the immersion heater, and the anode. To do this, the balloon must be drained and the electricity cut. With the bonnet and plate removed, remove the lime scale and soak the anode and the resistor in white vinegar (a plastic bottle cut under the flared neck fits the bill).
Nonuse Of The Water Heater Over A Period
To prevent any formation and deposition of limestone, storage water heaters installed in second homes or not used for several weeks will be systematically drained. This action reduces sediment deposition. To minimize losses, remember to turn off the breaker and water supply on the last day before consuming hot water.